Wind-driven rain can make a perfectly good roof leak. If you have stains that only appear during sideways rain, a controlled “storm hose test” can help confirm where water is entering. This article explains how to stage a safe, repeatable test that mimics crosswinds without damaging shingles or flooding your attic, and when to pivot to professional roof repair if your findings point to a failed detail. If your roof is steep, high, or aged, do not attempt this test—call a licensed professional. We cover safety, tools, step‑by‑step procedures, what to watch for, and when to call it and bring in a pro. Important: A hose test should be gentle and methodical. Never use a pressure washer. Never spray into roof penetrations or under shingle laps. Stop immediately if water appears indoors. When a hose test makes sense You notice drips only during gusty storms, not during calm showers. Interior stains trace back to a specific wall, chimney, dormer, or ridge line. You have already ruled out plumbing and HVAC condensation as sources. You want documentation to support a repair plan or insurance discussion; pairing photos with our guide on how to find a roof leak speeds decisions and keeps the scope focused. When not to test Active electrical hazards near the suspected area. Severe weather in the forecast. Testing is not an emergency patch. Roofs that are unsafe to walk due to pitch, height, or condition. Recently installed roofs that still fall under a contractor’s workmanship warranty. Call the installer first to avoid disputes. Tools and helpers Garden hose with an adjustable spray nozzle that can deliver a wide, soft pattern. A second person to manage the hose or monitor the interior. Painter’s tape and a notebook for time‑stamped notes. Smartphone for photos and short clips. Ladder with stabilizers and non‑marring feet. Personal protective equipment: shoes with grip, gloves, and eye protection. Optional: moisture meter and a headlamp for attic checks. Safety first Work with a partner and set a verbal check‑in every few minutes. Protect electrical fixtures and keep water away from service masts and open junction boxes. Use a low‑pressure, wide fan setting. You are recreating rain, not washing the roof. Place the ladder on stable ground and maintain three points of contact. Do not attempt this test on high, steep, or aged roofs. Always consult a licensed roofing professional if you are unsure. The logic behind a storm hose test Wind‑driven leaks often come from reversed overlaps or small gaps that only open under lateral pressure. A good test introduces water from low to high and from least intrusive to most, while the interior is monitored in real time. By moving in short zones and logging times, you can triangulate the exact entry point and decide whether the fix is minor or needs a larger roof replacement or roof installation scope during a reroof. Common targets that respond to crosswinds Roof‑to‑wall joints at sidewalls and dead valleys. Kick‑out flashing locations at gutter returns. Ridge vents without external baffles (see our primer on balanced roof ventilation). Chimney shoulders and counterflashing transitions. Skylight corners and curb flashings. Pipe boots with cracked collars. Valleys with debris dams near the eave end. For research-backed diagrams on how wind-driven rain finds its way into roof assemblies (especially at roof-to-wall edges), the U.S. Department of Energy’s Building America Solution Center has a clear primer on step and kick-out flashing that pairs well with this test: Step- and Kick-Out Flashing at Roof/Wall Intersections. Setup checklist Walk the yard. Remove debris that could snag the hose. Clear gutters near the test area so water does not back up; here is a quick refresher on how to clean your gutters before you start. Inside the home, expose ceilings or attic under the suspect zone. Lay towels and a plastic drop cloth. Assign roles: one person outside with the hose, one inside with a light. Start a shared timer on your phones. Step‑by‑step procedure 1) Start low and slow Stand below the test area. Using a wide fan, wet the shingles two to three courses above the eave for three minutes. Keep the nozzle at least 3–4 feet away from the surface and aim as a light sideways rain would. The interior partner watches for drips or new stains and notes the time. 2) Move laterally across the lower courses Advance along the eave line in three‑minute segments, overlapping each section by a foot; if overflow is part of the issue, plan a follow‑up gutter check as well. If no leaks appear, move one course higher and repeat. 3) Focus on transitions At each valley, sidewall, vent, or flashing change, test in short bursts. Keep the spray from entering under shingles. At a roof‑to‑wall joint, test the field first, then the step flashing zone, then the kick‑out; if you confirm entry here, our residential roofing services team can rebuild the sequence correctly. Mark the clock for each segment. 4) Work upslope toward the ridge If lower sections do not trigger a leak, move upslope one course at a time. For ridge vents, stand slightly off the ridge and direct a soft, lateral mist across the cap, never directly into the vent opening; severe staining or cap damage may warrant storm damage repair. 5) Pause and inspect After each segment, the interior partner checks the attic or ceiling. If moisture appears, stop adding water and switch to containment while you schedule a free inspection. Note the segment name and time stamp. 6) Confirm and repeat lightly If one segment likely triggers the leak, repeat it with a brief, gentle spray to confirm. Multiple small confirmations are better than one long flood that soaks materials and confuses the result. Interpreting results Immediate drip within one to two minutes suggests a leak near the surface or a direct path, such as a missing shingle, nail hole, or lifted flashing edge. Delayed dampness after five to ten minutes points to capillary travel behind siding or along underlayment laps. Spread

When rain comes in at an angle, roof systems get a tougher test than a straight vertical downpour. Nowhere is this more obvious than at roof-to-wall joints. These intersections carry layered materials, interruptions in shingles, and often gutters and siding squeezing into a tight space. Wind-driven rain can travel sideways, wick uphill, and sneak behind flashing that would be fine in calm weather. This guide explains why these leaks happen, how to spot them early, and the right way to fix and help prevent leaks when installed and maintained correctly. — and when it makes sense to involve our residential roofing services or targeted roof repair. Why roof-to-wall joints struggle in sideways rain A roof field sheds water in one direction. A roof-to-wall joint is a three-dimensional boundary where roofing, sheathing, framing, and cladding all meet. That complexity creates weak points that wind-driven rain can exploit. Common stressors in North Texas include: Gusty thunderstorms that push water laterally under shingle edges. Microbursts that reverse normal flow paths for a few seconds and force water behind flashing. Debris in gutters that backs water up at the sidewall and over tops the step flashing. Thermal expansion that opens hairline gaps in sealants and siding joints. The sual suspects at leaking sidewalls Missing or misinstalled step flashing Each shingle course should partner with an individual L-shaped step flashing that overlaps the one below. If a contractor used continuous “sidewall” flashing, skipped pieces, or failed to overlap correctly, sideways rain finds the seams. No kick-out flashing at the base Where a roof meets a vertical wall and transitions to a gutter, a kick-out flashing should divert water away from the siding. Without it, water runs behind stucco, fiber-cement, or brick veneer and shows up as stains inside. Counterflashing or siding trim that does not cover the step flashing Step flashing relies on a secondary cover. Brick needs reglet or surface-applied counterflashing. Lap siding needs properly detailed J-channel or trim. If that cover is short or wavy, wind pushes water behind it. Gutter end cap or apron gaps Even tiny pinholes at the gutter end near the sidewall can spray water directly into the joint during a storm — a good reason to consider a quick gutter evaluation before severe-weather season. Aging underlayment and dried sealants Underlayment is the last line of defense. If it is brittle or cut short on the wall, sideways rain can reach the sheathing. Early signs you can spot Staining or bubbling paint on the ceiling or wall below a roof-to-wall intersection. Swollen trim where a lower roof dies into a two-story wall. Dark streaks on brick or stucco beginning at the gutter return. Drips that only appear during wind-driven storms, not every rain. Catching these hints early saves drywall, insulation, and framing from prolonged moisture exposure. For a step‑by‑step approach to tracing moisture paths, see our guide on how to find a roof leak. How Apple Roofing diagnoses sidewall leaks A thorough repair starts with a thorough diagnosis. Here is what our Plano-based teams look for on a service visit: Roof and wall layout We sketch the joint and note shingle coursing, wall covering type, and gutter geometry. Flashings We verify the sequence of step flashing, measure overlaps, and check for nails where they do not belong. Kick-out condition We inspect the kick-out angle and size. Many leaks come from undersized kick-outs that let water hug the wall. Water pathway testing With controlled flow and no high-pressure spray, we recreate a sideways rain path to confirm the entry point without flooding the assembly. Interior moisture mapping Non-invasive meters help us map how far moisture traveled so the repair addresses all affected materials. Adjacent system check We evaluate gutter geometry, end caps, and apron, look for siding clearances over shingles, and confirm underlayment type at the wall. Problems often overlap here. Documentation We collect photos and simple diagrams so you can see the cause and the repair plan — and we outline next steps in a transparent, homeowner‑friendly way consistent with our process. Permanent fixes that work in Texas weather Rebuild the step flashing correctly We remove a wide enough area of shingles and wall finish to expose the joint. New step flashing is installed one piece per shingle course, with proper wall and roof legs, and with fasteners placed in the roof leg only. Overlaps are shingle-style, never back-lapped. Add or upsize the kick-out flashing The kick-out is bent to throw water cleanly into the gutter. In heavy wind zones, a larger kick with a crisp diverter edge performs better, and we tie this work into any required roof installation scope so the assembly remains warrantable. Integrate counterflashing or wall trim For brick, we cut a clean reglet kerf and install counterflashing that laps the step flashing and is sealed in the kerf. For siding, we integrate trims and housewrap to shingle over the step flashing, not under it. Refresh underlayment at the sidewall A self-adhered membrane is ideal here. It creates a watertight bridge between roof deck and wall sheathing and resists capillary movement during sideways rain; when the roof covering is aged, we may recommend a partial or full roof replacement to integrate the details properly. Tighten up the gutter return We reseal or replace end caps, check apron flashing, and ensure the first hanger does not distort the gutter at the joint. Vent, cable, and conduit penetrations Where utilities run along a sidewall, we add saddle flashings and sealant backer rods. Sideways rain finds these tiny penetrations first. Finish and cleanup We replace only the siding or trim necessary, color-match sealants, and leave clear photos showing the new shingle-style layering so you can see the permanent fix. Materials that raise the bar Self-adhered flashing membrane for sidewall tie-ins and kick-out backing. Painted aluminum or galvanized steel step flashing sized to match shingle exposure, never undersized. Masonry counterflashing in a kerf rather than face-sealed only. Quality sealants used as a supplement, not as the primary waterproofing.

Ridge vents are designed to let hot, moist air escape while keeping rain outside. That works well in calm or steady conditions. In a Texas thunderstorm with shifting gusts, though, wind can push water sideways and even upward. If the ridge vent is undersized, missing a wind baffle, or paired with weak intake, that gust can blow fine droplets into the attic. This guide explains why it happens, what it looks like inside your home, and the right way to fix and prevent it — including how balanced roof ventilation and timely roof repair work together to keep crosswind moisture out. How ridge vents are supposed to work A modern ridge vent runs along the roof peak and allows warm air to exit. Intake vents at the eaves feed cooler air into the attic, creating a continuous natural flow. When airflow is balanced and the vent has a proper external baffle and internal filter media, gravity and aerodynamic design keep rain out while air moves through the slot; if you are unsure about your current setup, our residential roofing services team can evaluate intake and exhaust on the same visit. Balanced ventilation 101 (quick math) Ventilation is measured in Net Free Area (NFA), listed in square inches. As a rule of thumb for most homes, you need 1 sq ft of NFA per 300 sq ft of attic floor area when a vapor barrier is present (1:300), split roughly 50% intake / 50% exhaust. Without a vapor barrier, many builders use 1:150. Example: a 1,800 sq ft attic at 1:300 needs 432 sq in total NFA; target ~216 sq in at the soffits and ~216 sq in at the ridge; during a reroof we often right-size this mix as part of roof installation so the system meets code and performs in storms. If the ridge vent provides 18 sq in per linear foot, you need about 12 linear feet of vent to hit 216. Details that keep water out External baffle to lift airflow above the opening and deflect lateral spray. Filter media/insect screen that slows droplets but still breathes; clogged media is a common culprit we address during roof replacement projects. Proper slot width (commonly 3/4″ per side, 1 1/2″ total, but follow the product spec). Continuous, nailed ridge caps with correct exposure so caps do not scoop wind into the vent. Why crosswinds defeat some ridge vents Crosswinds change the pressure pattern at the peak. Instead of clean, low-pressure draw, wind can create turbulent eddies and positive pressure that forces moisture into the vent opening. The most common triggers include: No external wind baffle on the ridge vent. Smooth, low-profile vents without a raised baffle can admit wind-driven rain in gusts. Insufficient intake at the soffits. When intake is starved, the system may pull from the ridge opening itself, which invites moisture. Clogged filter media from dust or insulation, which reduces free area and disrupts airflow patterns. Wide ridge slot cut beyond manufacturer limits. A slot that is too wide lowers resistance to wind splash. Improper shingle-over installation like nails through vent channels or short cap shingle exposure. Nearby roof features such as tall gables, parapets, or trees that cause swirling gusts at the peak. Telltale signs of wind-driven water at the ridge Damp sheathing or dark stains that trace along the peak, especially after a storm with gusts. Drips that appear only during sideways rain, not in steady vertical rain. Matted or clumped insulation directly under the ridge line. Light rust spotting on ridge nails or fasteners. Musty odor in the attic after a windy downpour. If you notice these, document the area with photos and call for an inspection before the next storm cycle; this checklist pairs well with our step‑by‑step guide on how to find a roof leak. Apple Roofing’s diagnostic steps Our Plano team handles these calls regularly. Here is how we determine the cause and plan a durable fix: Vent product identification. We check the ridge vent brand, baffle design, net free area, and end plug style. Slot measurement. The ridge slot width is verified against the manufacturer’s spec for the roof pitch. Intake audit. Soffit vents, baffles, and any insulation blockages are inspected to confirm balanced intake-to-exhaust ratios. Underlayment and deck condition. We look for secondary water-shedding layers at the ridge and any swelling or delamination. For homeowners who like a transparent plan, we map findings into a simple action list consistent with our process so you know what will be repaired and why. What we measure and document Attic size vs. NFA to confirm the design target and whether the ridge provides enough exhaust. Linear feet of ridge compared to needed exhaust, and whether alternate vents are required. Soffit intake type and free area after accounting for screens or perforations. Filter media condition inside the vent and any bird or insect nesting. Cap shingle nailing/exposure and fastener placement relative to vent channels. Fixes that stop the surprise shower Upgrade to a baffle-equipped ridge vent Older smooth-profile vents can be replaced with models that have an external wind baffle and internal weather filter. The baffle lifts airflow above the opening, which helps block splash and lateral spray. Right-size the ridge slot We close or recut an oversized slot to manufacturer tolerances, then reinstall the vent with proper fasteners and continuous but breathable coverage along the peak. Restore balanced ventilation Adding continuous soffit intake, clearing insulation away from eaves, or installing rafter baffles restores correct airflow. If your attic shows storm staining, we can combine this with targeted storm damage repair to stabilize the area first. Balanced intake reduces pressure at the ridge opening so the vent can resist crosswinds. Add secondary protection at the peak A self-adhered membrane under the ridge area provides a watertight bridge if wind momentarily overwhelms the vent; paired with high‑quality caps and baffles, it is a small upgrade compared to future roof repair bills. It is not a substitute for proper venting, but it adds resilience.

A hailstorm can rattle windows, pepper your gutters, and still leave you wondering: “Did it actually damage my roof?” The fastest way to know is to inspect methodically. Use this homeowner‑friendly checklist to spot the most common hail indicators, document what you find for insurance, and decide when it’s time to call the pros at Apple Roofing. If you’re just starting, skim these core warning signs so you know what to photograph first. Safety first: Wait until everything is dry, work from the ground whenever possible, and use a spotter if you must climb a ladder. No roof is worth a risky step. The 72‑Minute Sweep (Ground-Level Triage) Before you go roof‑side, do a quick perimeter walk with your phone and a notepad. Gutters & Downspouts: Look for fresh dings on the outer faces and piles of black granules where downspouts drain. Metal Trim & Mailbox: Dents on soft metal (drip edge, garage doors, mailbox) often mirror roof impacts. Siding & Window Screens: Check for pockmarks or tears—wind‑driven hail that scars siding can bruise shingles. Concrete & Decking: Pitted concrete or shredded leaves indicate high‑velocity hail. Yard Debris Pattern: Note where hail piled or where shingles/granules collected; take wide photos for context. If metal and landscaping took hits, your roof deserves a closer look. 15 DIY Signs of Hail Damage (By Roof System) Use binoculars from the ground first; climb only if you’re comfortable, with proper footwear and a spotter. For how hail size and density translate to real‑world roof impacts, see this research overview from the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety. Asphalt Shingle Roofs Circular “pockmarks” where granules are knocked away—often quarter‑sized. Soft bruises that give slightly under finger pressure (like a peach). The surface may look intact while the fiberglass mat is fractured beneath. Radiating cracks from a central hit point, especially on older or sun‑baked shingles. Matted or shiny scuffs where impact shaved granules and exposed asphalt. Heavy granules in gutters or at splash blocks after the storm (compare to your normal amount). Metal Roofs (Standing Seam, R‑Panel, Aluminum/Steel) Dimples in flat pans that are easiest to see in low, raking light (morning/evening). Chipped paint or coating—look closely along ridges and panel edges for micro‑cracks. Backed‑out screws or deformed washers on exposed‑fastener systems Tile Roofs (Concrete/Clay) Crescent chips along the lower edges of tiles. Hairline cracks across the field—often hard to see without binoculars. Slipped or displaced tiles that opened small gaps at overlaps or in valleys. Flat Roofs (TPO, PVC, EPDM, Modified Bitumen) Soft depressions you can feel underfoot—membrane bruising that may not puncture immediately. Pinholes or punctures near mechanical curbs, walk pads, and roof‑mounted equipment. Fresh blisters or wrinkles that weren’t there before the storm (hail can expand trapped moisture/air). Circular scours on mod‑bit revealing the dark base where granules were blasted off. Bonus interior check: In the attic, look for dark rings on the roof deck, damp insulation, or a musty odor after rain—early signs of a micro‑leak. What’s Cosmetic vs. Functional (And Why It Matters) Cosmetic: Minor dents on a metal roof’s flat pans or faint scuffs that don’t break coatings or seams. These usually don’t leak. Functional: Anything that impairs the roof’s ability to shed water—shingle mat fractures, punctured membranes, broken tiles, deformed seams/locks, or coating loss that invites corrosion. Functional damage is what typically qualifies for insurance coverage. If you’re unsure, don’t guess—document and get a pro opinion. Metal owners comparing dented panels vs. seam damage can review our metal roofing options for repair and replacement paths. How to Document Like an Adjuster (In Minutes) Goal: Build a clear evidence trail that an adjuster can verify quickly. Shoot in sequence: Wide: Each elevation and each roof slope. Medium: Features (valleys, vents, skylights). Close‑up: Impacts with a coin/tape for scale. Label files clearly: 2025-09-22_WestSlope_Close_Bruise_01.jpg Create a storm log: Date/time, hail size (if observed), wind direction, and any neighborhood alerts. Keep screenshots and receipts in the same folder. Temporary protection: If there’s an active leak, arrange professional tarping and keep the invoice/photos. Many policies reimburse reasonable emergency measures. 72‑Hour Roadmap: From Discovery to Decision Hour 0–24: Ground check → attic check → photos → start storm log. Hour 24–48: Schedule a hail‑focused inspection with Apple Roofing—book it here: schedule a free inspection; we’ll create a photo‑rich report you can share with insurance. Hour 48–72: If functional damage is confirmed, decide whether to file; we’ll coordinate with the adjuster to align the scope with actual conditions. DIY vs. Pro: Where to Draw the Line Okay for DIY: Visual checks, photos, clearing debris from safe areas, and interior monitoring. Call a Pro Immediately: Active leaks; extensive shingle bruising; tile cracks/slips; metal seam damage; flat‑roof punctures or widespread soft spots; or if your roof is steep/slick. For fast help after storms, our team handles storm‑damage repair with code‑compliant scopes What our inspection includes: Full‑slope evaluation with impact counts Accessory review (flashings, vents, skylights, gutters) Attic moisture scan (where accessible) Clear recommendations—repair vs. replacement—with code notes and warranty considerations Quick Comparison Table (Keep for Claims) Roof System Typical Hail Sign Quick DIY Test Risk if Ignored Likely Next Step Asphalt shingles Soft bruises, granule scours Gentle finger press (dry, warm day); check gutters for granules UV exposure accelerates cracking → leaks at penetrations/valleys Spot repairs for isolated hits; slope replacement for widespread bruising Metal panels Dimples in flat pans; chipped coating Sight in low angle light; inspect fasteners/seams Coating loss → corrosion; seam deformation → leaks Touch‑up coating, reseal seams; replace panels if seams/locks are compromised Concrete/Clay tile Crescent chips; hairline cracks Binocular scan at eaves/valleys Water bypasses underlayment; rot at battens/deck Replace broken tiles; check underlayment and valleys Flat membranes Soft depressions; punctures; new blisters Walk pads only; check around curbs/drains Rapid leak spread; ponding worsens Heat‑weld/patch; overlay or replace if impacts are systemic Insurance Basics (30‑Second Primer) ACV vs. RCV: ACV pays current value first; RCV pays full replacement cost—depreciation is released after work is completed. For filing steps and terminology, see

A hailstorm can be loud, fast, and confusing—like nature tossed a bag of marbles at your home and sprinted away. The good news? If you follow a simple timeline in the first 72 hours, you can protect your roof, document what matters for insurance, and avoid costly surprises. Here’s your step‑by‑step playbook from the pros at Apple Roofing. A hailstorm can be loud, sudden, and stressful. The good news? With a simple 72-hour action plan, you can protect your property, capture important details, and take the right next steps toward repairs. Apple Roofing is here to guide you through the process with safety, clarity, and trusted service.   Hail Size & Likely Effects (Quick Guide) Pea (1/4″): Cosmetic dings to soft metals; light granule scuffing on older shingles. Marble (1/2″): Spot bruising on asphalt; thin‑gauge metal dents. Quarter (1″): Common leak starter—shingle mat fractures, tile edge chips, punctures on aged flat membranes. Golf ball (1.75″): Widespread functional damage—metal seam deformation, cracked tiles, membrane punctures. Baseball (2.75″+): Severe; expect broken tiles, skylight damage, shingle loss. (Other factors like wind speed, roof age, and material type also matter.) Safety First (Before You Do Anything) Wait for lightning to pass and surfaces to dry. Check from the ground or use binoculars—never climb onto a wet or steep roof. Take only safe photos of visible damage. First 72 Hours: Step-by-Step Hours 0–6: Initial Check Walk around your home: Look for dents in gutters, metal trim, or mailboxes. Take photos: Wide, medium, then close-up. Check inside: Look for water spots on ceilings or walls. Protect valuables: Place containers under leaks and move items if needed. Hours 6–24: Temporary Protection Secure leaks: Professional tarping is the safest option. Start a storm log: Write down the date/time and keep weather alerts or photos together. Book an inspection: Apple Roofing offers free post-storm inspections, including a full roof review and documentation. Hours 24–72: Professional Support Roof inspection: A roofer will assess slopes, flashing, skylights, and accessories. Plan repairs: Based on findings, you’ll get recommendations for repair or replacement. Coordinate next steps: Having organized photos and notes makes the process smoother. 72‑Hour Action & Evidence Table Time Window Task Where to Check What to Capture Why It Matters 0–6 hrs Exterior triage Gutters, downspouts, metal trim, concrete, landscaping Wide → medium → close‑up photos; coin/tape for scale Establishes baseline storm impacts before anything changes 0–6 hrs Interior check Ceilings, can lights, attic decking/insulation New stains, damp insulation, daylight at penetrations Early proof of active leaks; prevents secondary damage 6–24 hrs Runoff clues Downspouts/splash blocks Photos of granule piles; white‑cloth granule test Granule loss = shingle aging/possible mat fractures 6–24 hrs Temporary protection Leak areas, skylights, vents Photo of installed tarping and invoices Insurers often reimburse reasonable mitigation steps 24–48 hrs Pro inspection All slopes, valleys, penetrations, accessories Photo log by slope: bruises, cracks, punctures, seam damage Distinguishes cosmetic vs. functional damage for coverage 24–48 hrs Claim decision Policy docs; inspector’s findings Notes on deductible, ACV/RCV, exclusions Filing promptly links damage to the event 48–72 hrs Adjuster walk Match adjuster scope to site conditions Side‑by‑side photos, marked areas needing correction Ensures scope covers all slopes/accessories, not just obvious areas 48–72 hrs Choose repair path Asphalt/metal/tile/flat roof sections Final scope + materials, dates, contractor details Supports permits, warranty, and recoverable depreciation What NOT to Do Don’t climb onto your roof—safety comes first. Don’t ignore minor dents; they can worsen over time. Don’t rush into contracts without clear scopes and materials. How Apple Roofing Helps (Fast, Documented, Local) When you schedule a hail inspection, our team will: Provide a detailed roof condition report. Document findings with photos by slope and accessory. Recommend the best repair or replacement plan. Offer emergency tarping and leak protection if needed. We focus on clear communication, dependable documentation, and local expertise—so you can move forward with confidence.   Service Area & Contact Apple Roofing Address: 3001 E Plano Pkwy #100 Plano, TX 75074, United States Phone: (469) 908-4323 Find us on Google Website: Apple Roofing   FAQs How soon should I get an inspection? Within 24–48 hours after a storm is best. Does hail always cause roof damage? Not always—size, wind, and roof type all play a role. Is emergency tarping worth it? Yes, it protects your home until permanent work can be completed. How do I choose the right contractor? Look for licensed, insured, and local roofers with a track record of quality service. Need fast help after a storm? Contact Apple Roofing for a thorough, material‑specific hail inspection and a clear action plan.

Hail is sneaky. It can thump your roof in a ten‑minute storm and leave behind issues that take months to reveal themselves. The sooner you spot damage, the easier it is to prevent leaks, mold, and expensive structural repairs. This guide shows you how to identify hail damage across the four most common roof types, what to document, and when to bring in the pros at Apple Roofing. Safety First Wait until the storm passes and the roof is dry. Use binoculars from the ground when possible. If you must climb, wear shoes with good traction and use a spotter. Never walk on wet, icy, or steep surfaces. How Hail Damages Roofs Hailstones impact at high speed. The energy transfer bruises or fractures the outer surface and weakens waterproofing layers underneath. Damage can be obvious, like cracked tiles, or subtle, like lost asphalt granules that lead to premature aging. Independent testing from the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety explains how stone size, density, and speed affect different materials, which is why two homes on the same block can see very different outcomes. Always check accessories too: flashings, vents, skylights, gutters, and downspouts often tell the story before the roof deck does. Hail Size & Likely Effects (Rule of Thumb) Pea (1/4″): Cosmetic dings on soft metals; light granule loss on aged shingles. Marble (1/2″): Spot bruising on asphalt; minor dents on thin-gauge metal panels. Quarter (1″): Common leak starter—shingle mat fractures, chipped tiles, punctures on aged flat membranes. Golf ball (1.75″): Widespread functional damage—metal seam deformation, cracked tiles, membrane punctures. Baseball (2.75″+): Structural concerns possible—broken tiles, skylight failure, severe shingle loss. Wind speed, stone density, roof age, and prior wear can shift these thresholds. Quick Field Guide (Table) Roof Type What You’ll See Likely Severity Quick Tests Recommended Next Step Asphalt Shingles Circular pockmarks, soft bruises, granule piles at downspouts Moderate → High (mat fractures accelerate aging) Press gently for softness; check gutters for granules Document with photos; consider storm‑damage repair if multiple hits per square Metal (Standing Seam/R‑Panel) Dimples in flat pans, chipped coating, backed‑out fasteners Low → High (functional if seams/locks affected) Sight panels in raking light; inspect seams/fasteners Touch up coating or plan commercial roof repair if seams are deformed Tile (Concrete/Clay) Edge chips, crescent cracks, slipped tiles Moderate → High (water bypasses to underlayment) Binocular check at eaves/valleys; look for slips Replace cracked tiles; evaluate underlayment; schedule inspection Flat (TPO/PVC/EPDM/Mod‑Bit) Soft depressions, punctures, new blisters, scoured granules Moderate → High (punctures/leaks spread fast) Walk pads & seams; check drains/scuppers for debris Patch/weld punctures; consider overlay if impacts are widespread Accessories Dented gutters, vents, skylight cracks Indicator of roof‑surface impacts Check downspout washout areas and metal trim If accessories are hit, book a free inspection to assess roof surfaces Asphalt Shingle Roofs What to look for: Bruising: Soft spots that feel spongy when pressed. They may not show a hole but the mat beneath can be fractured. Granule loss: Circular bare spots where protective granules have been knocked off. Look for excessive granules in gutters and at downspout exits. Cracks and tears: Radiating cracks from a central hit point, especially on older, brittle shingles. Shiny or dark “pockmarks”: Fresh impacts can look darker; as they weather they may appear lighter. Quick checks from the ground: Run a white cloth under downspouts. If it picks up lots of black grit, you likely have granule shedding. Scan metal surfaces like drip edge and gutter faces for dings. If metal took hits, shingles probably did too. Why it matters: Bruising and granule loss expose the asphalt to UV. UV makes the shingle brittle, which speeds up cracking and shortens roof life. Small hail issues become leaks around penetrations and valleys if ignored—if you spot these early signs of roof damage like sudden granule piles or soft spots, review our quick guide on warning indicators and consider prompt storm‑damage repair. Small hail issues become leaks around penetrations and valleys if ignored. Metal Roofs (Steel, Aluminum, Standing Seam, R‑Panel) What to look for: Dents and dimples: Most visible on broad, flat pans between seams or ribs. Coating damage: Chips or micro‑cracks in paint or protective coatings that can lead to corrosion. Loose fasteners and displaced flashings: Impacts can back out screws or deform washers. How to inspect: Sight along the panel at a low angle in morning or late‑day light. Dents pop visually in raking light. Check sealant lines along ridge caps, hips, and penetrations. Hail can break adhesion. Cosmetic vs functional: Some dents are cosmetic and do not leak. Others deform seams or puncture coatings. A qualified inspection determines whether the roof’s weatherproofing is compromised—when in doubt, compare options for metal roofing service in Dallas and schedule timely commercial roof repair to prevent seam failures. Tile Roofs (Concrete, Clay) What to look for: Cracked tiles: Half‑moon cracks at the lower edge, crescent chips, or clean breaks across the field. Spalled surfaces: Flaked or pitted faces where hail shattered the outer glaze. Shifted or slipped tiles: Impacts can knock tiles out of alignment, opening pathways for water. Inspection tips: Use binoculars first. Walking on tile can cause more damage than the hail did. Check valleys, rakes, and eaves where wind concentrates hail impacts. Hidden risk: Cracked tiles can look minor yet channel water to the underlayment. Prolonged exposure saturates battens and decking, inviting rot. Flat Roofs (TPO, PVC, EPDM, Built‑Up, Modified Bitumen) What to look for: Indentations and membrane bruising: Soft depressions that may not puncture immediately but weaken the membrane. Punctures: Small holes around rooftop equipment, curbs, and seams. Blisters and wrinkles: Hail can expand trapped moisture or air pockets, causing blisters to rise. Granule loss on modified bitumen: Circular scours that reveal the black base. Accessory clues: Check protective walk pads, AC shrouds, vents, and skylight domes for fractures. Inspect scuppers and internal drains for debris washed in by hail. Ponding water test: After a storm, note where water lingers beyond 24–48 hours. Depressions from hail can

Storms that bring hail, high winds, and heavy rain can leave hidden damage behind. At Apple Roofing, we know that when storms strike, homeowners need a trusted partner to keep their property safe. That’s why we’re here to Be the Calm After the Storm—Building a Sweeter Experience rooted in ease, trust, and people-focused service. Scheduling a free inspection with Apple Roofing is the best first step to safeguard your home. We Make it Easy by guiding you through the process, Building Trust with clear communication, and keeping you, the homeowner, at the center of everything we do. Let us help you identify and address any storm-related damage to ensure your home remains secure. Schedule a Free Inspection Today The Hidden Threats of Roof Damage Storm damage isn’t always obvious. Small cracks, lifted shingles, dents, and tiny leaks may seem minor, but they can worsen over time, leading to bigger issues. Our experienced roofing consultants are experts at spotting these subtle signs of damage and conducting a thorough inspection to make sure nothing is missed. Leaving minor issues unchecked can lead to leaks, mold, water stains, and structural damage. Don’t leave it to chance—schedule a free inspection to ensure your home and family are fully protected. The Cost of Ignoring Roof Damage Choosing not to inspect or repair storm damage can lead to larger, more costly issues down the road. A small fix today could prevent the need for a full roof replacement tomorrow. Additionally, insurance policies often require timely action after storm damage. Delays could mean footing the repair bill if a claim is denied, and energy costs can rise as roof insulation becomes less effective. Take the proactive step of getting an inspection—it’s free, with no pressure. A quick inspection can save you time, money, and peace of mind in the long run. Book A Free Inspection Now Why Start with a Professional Roof Inspection? Homeowners often wonder if they should contact their insurance company first, but beginning with a trusted roofing inspection is the best choice. Here’s why:  Thorough and Free: Apple Roofing offers a complimentary inspection by trained consultants who catch damage that might go unnoticed.  Claims Support: We act as advocates for our customers, providing clear documentation for insurance, helping ensure fair claim processing.  Avoid Unnecessary Claims: If there’s no damage, there’s no need to file a claim that could impact future premiums. We’re here to protect both your home and your claim history.  Schedule Your Inspection with Confidence Roof Inspections Provide Peace of Mind When severe weather hits, the to-do list can feel overwhelming. Scheduling a roof inspection with Apple Roofing is a simple way to restore peace of mind. We’re Building a Sweeter Experience with every inspection, helping you feel safe, informed, and fully supported.  If your home has faced hail, high winds, or other severe weather, don’t wait to protect it. Let us be the Calm After the Storm—schedule a free, no-obligation inspection today.  Get Peace of Mind

As communities in the southeastern U.S. recover from the devastating effects of hurricanes Helene and Milton, Apple Roofing is living out its powerful purpose of Building a Sweeter Experience and mission to Be the Calm After the Storm. Hurricane Helene caused extensive damage and tragic loss of life as it impacted several states, including Florida, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina, North Carolina and more. Hurricane Milton, though thankfully not as strong as once predicted, followed up with its own devastation across much of Florida. Apple Roofing’s hearts are with everyone living in those communities. Several of these communities are the ones our teams call home, too. In addition to ensuring that their own families and friends are safe, our Florida teams have begun looking for opportunities to make a positive impact and be the calm after the storm for everyone affected. How Apple Roofing is Helping Apple Roofing’s desire to help extended not only to our home communities, but also to our neighbors. We are committed to supporting these and other communities as recovery efforts continue. We are with you. One example of how Apple Roofing is living out its purpose and mission is how we and our partners at Saint Raphael Roofing teamed up with Stokes Marine of Fort Myers to deliver essential supplies to people in Avery County, North Carolina. Apple Roofing is actively looking for more opportunities to assist in hurricane recovery. Apple Roofing and Saint Raphael Roofing are both grateful that we were able to assist Stokes Marine as they help residents of Avery County recover and regain peace of mind. We Are Here for You As we gather more information on where help is needed most and how best we can serve, our teams are also prepared to assess storm damage to homes and businesses in the affected areas, specifically in Florida, Georgia and South Carolina. We are also looking to aid in many other ways to make recovery easier for all. We stand with you, our neighbors, and assure you that Apple Roofing is committed to Building a Sweeter Experience and want to demonstrate how we can Be the Calm After the Storm. Please, do not hesitate to contact us today if you need assistance or have an idea for how Apple Roofing can better help during this time. We are actively seeking opportunities to make a positive impact. Apple Roofing: The Calm After the Storm With all that has happened in the last week, we understand that there will be many steps and stages to recovery. Let us know how we can assist. In addition, if your home or business was damaged, please do not hesitate to reach out and schedule a free inspection. Our experts will provide you with a detailed damage report and recommend the next steps. As always, you are under no obligation to choose Apple Roofing to make repairs. We also offer emergency tarping services to stop leaks and damage from worsening while you explore all of your options. Above all though, please remember that Apple Roofing stands with you as our communities recover. We are grateful for the opportunity to serve our communities by Building a Sweeter Experience and Being the Calm After the Storm.

If you’re wondering whether your homeowner’s insurance will cover the cost of a new roof, the answer depends mainly on the specific circumstances leading to the roof damage. Understanding what is and isn’t covered can help avoid surprises during claims. What Does Homeowner’s Insurance Cover? A standard homeowner’s insurance policy generally covers roof damage caused by sudden and accidental events, often called “perils.” These perils include: What Homeowner’s Insurance Doesn’t Cover Homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover all types of roof damage. Policies have limitations, and it’s crucial to understand them to avoid unexpected costs. Some situations where roof damage might not be covered include: How to Get Your Insurance to Cover a New Roof If your roof has been damaged and you think it qualifies for coverage, there are vital steps you should take to increase the likelihood of your claim being approved: Partial vs. Full Coverage It’s worth noting that insurance companies may only pay for part of a roof replacement, depending on the damage assessment. If they determine that pre-existing issues or lack of maintenance contributed to the roof’s failure, they may offer to cover only the portion directly impacted by a recent incident. For example, if a windstorm damages part of your roof but previously unrepaired wear and tear exists, the insurance might only cover the storm-related repairs. Proper maintenance and prompt repairs are crucial to ensure more extensive coverage when needed. When You May Need Additional Coverage Depending on where you live, some natural disasters, such as hurricanes or floods, are not covered under standard homeowner’s policies. In areas prone to these events, additional insurance is necessary. If you live in a flood-prone area, consider adding flood insurance to ensure you’re fully protected. Key Takeaways Understanding your insurance policy is critical when it comes to roof replacements. Be proactive in maintaining your roof, and ensure you know which damage your insurance will cover. This knowledge can save you time, frustration, and money when facing roof-related issues. Ready to Protect Your Home? Get Professional Help Today If you’re facing roof damage and unsure what your insurance will cover, we’re here to help. Apple Roofing offers professional inspections to assess your roof and guide you through the insurance claim process. Contact us today to schedule a free inspection, and let our experienced team ensure you get the coverage you need for a safe and secure roof. Schedule Your Free Inspection Now.